What a gem of a crag, a perfect place for anyone wanting to start climbing, deep water solo style (above the sea with no ropes).
Abercastle Harbour, up from St davids but below Fishguard is a small, sleepy village. Surrounding the edges of the harbour is ‘mostly’ solid rock, there are a few crags with slight developments.
Climbing at Abercastle is perfect for me at least as I love deepwater soloing, the DWS part had the most routes established, some great little with still enough space to sneak in a few more though (at least not noted in the guide anyway).
The climbing was sweet, the rock was perfect, solid and textured and the crag only at its max around 18 metres high was not intimidating. Most the crag tops at about 10 and the waters seems almost endlessly deep it breads confidence, with the sun shining and not fussed about getting wet, I tried a lot of different lines and I fell in, a lot.Had a great little blast around, climbing all the routes in the guide.
After a few falls, working my way through 4 set of boots, I finally managed to get a new route up, well one not in the guide any way, named it “A stags life” at the grade of 6c.
The climb sweeps in from the left from the “unconfirmed” (seems stiff to me, probably 6c) 7a line found in the guide but continues further left into the start of the cave then up the groove to finish after a few steep and tricky moves.
Climbing in North Pembrokeshire’s Abercastle Harbour
If you are up that way, its sunny and you either climbing solidly at the 6b grade you have a great time climbing easy routes with a couple of projects, if you climb harder and fancy an active climbing rest day this is a perfect no fuss location to get a great afternoon in climbing.
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