Climbing at Tirpentyws, wow what a crag!

We managed to sneak out of Bristol for a sunny climb this Sunday and it did not dissapoint.

A absolutely fantastic crag for those wanting to either take first steps into sport climbing outside or push their grades with confidence (if climbing at the 6b to 6c mark).

Well bolted, easy access, 10/10 crag comfort and almost definitely strong rock with little to no chance of falling rocks.

I went with intention of working, I knew there were a few newer climbers planning on being there and with it being a Sunday I was just happy to be out and even happier to help out, teach a little and set up top ropes.

The crag is perfect for training for those want to push their grade good bolts and quick link loweroffs , its easy to romp up a load of routes in no time, so of course in between helping I did managed to sneak in few routes. (can you call 10 routes “sneaking a few in”)

The climbing at Tirpentyws

The climbing is great, great moves on good holds, what else is there!? With small edges to large incut pockets this crag has my favourite style of climbing.

The climbing is either vertical or just off (both ways), there is nothing to steep to climb at the crag, it lends itself to a mix of delicate climbing with the classic edges found on sand stone and, in the harder grades, some big throw moves.

All the routes are well equipped and have chain and quick link loweroffs

The walk in to Tirpentyws

From the car park leave and head up the shallow valley sticking the fire-track. Simply follow this slightly up hill for around 10mins before the crag appears. Easy!

Climb over the fence at the small style and ignore the signs saying no climbing (this apparently is there for liability issues) and your there.

The climbing and crag layout at Tirpentyws

The easier climbs wrap the outer edges of the crag while the classic 6c and 7b can be found slightly left of the middle routes. I think the line of the crag was the 6c up the left hand side of the main face, the route quality line from start to finish, with what seems like only one way to do it, no matter your height.

There are plenty of great 6’s a quality pump 6b+ on the left along with lots of different and interesting climbing across the whole crag.

Honestly, its a absolute gem of a crag. with fun and safe routes everywhere.

UKC logbook for Tirpenstwys

How to get to Tirpentyws

From Bristol it takes around 45 minutes, almost quicker than cheddar. Its easy to get and not far off the motorway the directions below are taken from

There are 2 ways to approach this crag.

1. If coming from Pontypool/Blaenavon. Turn off the A4043 into Pontnewynydd Industrial Estate follow this road to a T junction just past the Post office sorting depot. Turn left up the hill along the road passing the Plas y Coed pub on your left, continue straight on the road will become lined with ancient beech trees. About 150 mts further along on the right hand side are the 2 old entrances to what was Tirpentwys Tip. Park in either.

2.If coming from Crumlin. In Hafodyrynys turn left off the A472, then take the road that runs down the side of the chinese takeaway. After about 70mts fork right up the steep hill go round the hairpin bend and pass the Star inn on your left. Cross over a cattle grid, the road levels out, continue straight on crossing a second cattle grid, pass the houses of Pantygasseg on your left following the road down the hill. The 2 entrances to the old tip are on your left in about 250mts.

To the Crag. Go through the green metal barrier(top entrance) onto the tarmac road and follow this for about 200mts until it bends to the right, at this point go straight on following the gravel road you will pass a footbridge on your left after 150 mts, 50 mts after this cross the small drainage ditch on the right, the crag will now be visible approx’ 100mts on the right. There is a style fixed to the fence to allow easy access.

To coincide with the start of the new season(2009), it looks like the council are building a nice new car park at the lower of the 2 entrances, this will provide an excellent facility and make using the top entrance unecessary, thanks Torfaen.

The nice new car park has been closed because of vandalism, fly tipping and drug abuse, there is a new metal barrier in place which is locked. I spoke to the council, the car park will now operate on a key holder scheme, so if you are local and want a key contact torfaen they will send the forms to fill in so you can have your own key, please use this responsibly.” – Taken from UKC