Written by: Fer Climbs (Facebook)
Original title: List of sport crags for beginners (<6a)

 

Bristol does not have a lot of easy sport routes around but there is a fair amount in the Low Wye Valley and South Wales. It is something that I struggled when I was starting therefore I think it is good to share with the group.

You can check the following crags:

Wyndcliffe Quarry : Several easy routes at the end of the Upper Tier and now being opened for the new guide (donations for bolt fund to Paypal account wyevalleyboltfund@gmail.com ).

Gilwern Main Crag: Shady, for summer months but lot of easy and good rock.

Woodcroft Quarry: Lovely routes, some quite long.

Ban-i-Gor: Amazing place with some easy routes, access is a bit tricky but it is worth it. One of the few natural outcrops bolted around here. It has of the few routes around here where you actually start climbing a tree! Further in Wales:

Tyle y Coch: Guaranteed you will be alone. Ideal for beginners low level (they claim to have the easiest sport route in Wales).

Siocled Seren Pysgod Quarry (or just Six Bells): Similar to the previous one, very beginners friendly. A bit trashed and rock is sometimes fragile but I like it and I have climbed all routes there.

Black Cliff Quarry: Well… it is there. Quite a shady place, probably good for summer.

Tirpentwys: Lovely, very sunny, but it is getting crowded.

Tintern Quarry: Thirty-Foot Wall is nearly all between 4+ and 6a. Bring a helmet! Recently there are significant issues with the owner so probably best to avoid it.

 

You have the websites http://sportsclimbs.co.uk/ and http://swmc.org.uk/(Guidebook Wiki) to search for topos. Also you have some topos in the group. Of course, as usual, UKC (http://www.ukclimbing.com/) it is a good source of information.
As far as I am aware around Bristol there are not lot of sport crags. Avon Gorge starts at 6b and Snuff Mills has some new quite hard 6a with the potential to bolt some easy routes if there is interest (and money).

Cheddar South and North has some crags with easy routes but are significantly polished (except one that I am not going not name to keep it as it is). If you go there don’t forget your BMC membership as you need third party insurance to climb there and controls are frequent (in the South face is mandatory, in the North face is recommended). Also don’t forget to check the calendar as some areas are restricted in summer to protect tourist from rock falling.

If you need help learning climbing our going out check out my page: https://www.facebook.com/ferclimbs/
Enjoy your climbing… whatever the grade!

 


 

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Fernando Hidalgo – https://www.facebook.com/ferclimbs/